Puglia: Land of the Trulli

Miles of grassy dunes and silver-green olive groves, burning white sugar-cube towns, intense turquoise-blue waters...that’s Puglia. Washed by the Adriatic on one side and the Ionian Sea on the other, the heel of Italy’s boot still remains remarkably untrodden.

Puglia is an essentially flat region that is home to miles of sweeping coastline. Impressive karst formations furnish the Murgia highland and coast whilst inland you can explore the Castellana Caves, home to an impressive collection of stalactites and stalagmites.

The region offers an abundance of interesting and quirky towns and villages that lend themselves to leisurely strolls. Alberobello and Locorotondo are home to entire streets of beehive-roofed Trulli homes, an unusual but attractive feature of the region.

Trulli buildings originated between three and four thousand years ago but nobody’s really sure how they came about. Now they attract interest from Italians and foreign visitors alike and many have been renovated into wonderfully unique accommodation. The region is punctuated with immensely stylish hotels that have shades of the exotic, with adobe-style architecture and Moroccan flourishes.

Bari is the regional capital and consists of a rambling old town – full of striking architecture – a major shopping district for frittering away your Euros, and the administrative district which surrounds the rectangular shopping area.

The town of Lecce – the so-called Florence of the Baroque – has a riotously ornate central piazza and narrow lanes that lend themselves to exploring. The local sandstone has a slight pink tinge that makes rose tinted glasses redundant and every turn reveals another captivating building.

Fortified Ostuni, set on three hills rising over the Adriatic, also begs to be seen. It is home to spotless beaches and endless vineyards and olive groves which just beg you to sample their wares.

Over the years Puglia has been dominated by many a major power, resulting in a diverse and unusual mix of buildings and customs. There are cool Baroque churches to gaze upon, pagan dances to watch and archaeological complexes like Canne della Battaglia and Ignazia to explore.

There are many impressive castles and imposing cathedrals to see as well, ensuring that the time you spend in Pulgia will be enriching as well as relaxing.

The Puglians, like most other Italians, have a near obsessive love for food and take great pride in their local specialities. Puglia produces more olive oil than the whole of the rest of Italy and more wine than Germany. Spend time enjoying these delicacies as well as locally made pastas, soft cheeses and every kind of fruit you can imagine.

If you’ve still got room after all of that sit in the sunshine and wash it down with one of the potent local wines, or join the locals for a latte di mandorla – iced coffee with almond syrup.

Go in high summer to guarantee a tan or in late spring to see the carpets of flowers.


Where to Stay

Abate Masseria, near Noci

Gnarled oaks and walnut trees, conical roofs peeping over the walls like a row of clown’s hats – you’ll wonder where you are. These round stone buildings are the typical Trulli homes of Puglia. Here they’re part of an ancient farm estate whose country simplicity has been subtly modernised without losing its charm. The bedrooms are rustic chic havens of red tiled floors, white plaster and embroidered bedspreads. Modern trappings – internet access, flat screen TVs – are there but cunningly hidden. Dine on Puglian specialities in either the barrel-vaulted dining room or under the gazebo. Spoil yourself with an essential olive oil massage and sip cocktails by the pool. Pretty magic.


Il Palmento, near Locorotondo

Il Palmento’s cluster of tiny, meringue-topped Trulli look like a forest of dazzling white beehives. More like little houses than conventional suites, the bedroom and bathroom are tucked either side of a central sitting area. Floors are tiled, walls are whitewashed, and ceilings are domed while the furniture is simple and rustic. Il Palmento’s landscapes of rolling vineyards and olive groves make exploring the towns of Locorotondo and Alberobello delightful. There’s a bar in the former wine press, an inviting pool and rose-filled grounds to wander. Stunningly fresh Puglian cooking is served in the rustic-style restaurant and you can work up an appetite play tennis or Italian bowls. Alternatively indulge yourself with a massage or a Turkish bath.


Palazzo Baldi, near Galatina

Now this is grand living; not one 16th century palazzo but four. Tucked behind the Galatina’s cathedral these small but perfectly formed palazzi were once home to local aristocracy. The bedrooms are large, dramatic spaces elegantly furnished with a certain theatricality. Some have balconies, while others overlook the inner courtyard. Galatina is a great base for exploring this unspoilt part of Puglia. Explore lovely Lecce, with its rich baroque architecture, admire the frescoes in Galatina’s Santa Caterina cathedral or head for the beaches. Return to your private palazzo and sip a cool drink in the leafy courtyard, or soak up the rays on the rooftop terrace – a secret suntrap.


Masseria Serra dell’Isola, near Bari

Step through the pillared gateway, under the olive and almond trees and into the arms of this whitewashed masseria where there’s a tangible sense that little has changed here in the last 300 years. Fires still burn in the terracotta stoves in the old olive press – now the living room. Sepia-tinted photographs line the walls and antiques fill the rooms. Bedrooms have an unpretentious, country warmth and are furnished with pretty wrought-iron bedsteads, embroidered bedspreads and charming paintings. Borrow a bicycle to explore the countryside, read a book in the garden and savour homemade specialities such as lamb with seasonal vegetables, chickpeas and calamari and biancomangiare (Puglian almond crème caramel). The masseria’s simple homeliness will wrap you in its warmth.

Getting There
BA flies from London-Gatwick to Bari; Ryanair flies from London-Stansted to Bari and Brindisi.


Feature written for Italy Magazine
Photo by -Zelig-